Dispatch: Week One

An informal poll conducted at the Shanghai airport reached the following conclusions.

1. Huangshan has left the greatest impression thus far. It is a spiritual and mystical destination that looks exactly like the pictures. There is no doubt that the Yellow Mountain holds a special place in all of our hearts.
2. We are eating a lot of good food. Of course this observation is disputable and  depends upon the style and kind of Chinese food that one has become accustomed to.
3. The last time that we visited China was in 1999. There has been a sea change in the ensuing 10-years. China has definitely grown up. There are more cars and fewer bicycles on the road. The roads themselves, especially the freeways, are pristine and relatively empty. The middle class has grown significantly and desire Western fashion and trends.
4. The architecture is cutting edge. There are more 21^st Century concept skyscrapers in Shanghai than there are in the rest of the world combined.
5. The intimate and beautiful tea ceremony in Hengzhou was an uplifting, educational experience that settled the group, provided us with insight into the Chinese mindset and hopefully set us all upon a road to peace and tranquility.
6. It is hard to find a good drink in China. Especially for breakfast.

When we were here in 1999 everybody smoked; now there are restrictions upon smoking and there are far fewer people smoking in public places. The public has a green consciousness and takes pollution, and by extension global warming, very seriously. In this respect there is very little difference between American and Chinese people.

The Chinese seem to have a true affection for Americans. The Olympic coverage is very respectful of America’s efforts, especially those of Michael Phelps. The people that we have met are genuinely friendly and respectful. Many are interested in who we are and what we think. There is little to no hostility outside of taxi drivers exploiting local ignorance, and that is as much a universal truth as the sun rising in the east.

One could visit China annually and still only scratch the surface. We are handicapped by time limitations. For instance, we went to the Shanghai Museum which chronicles ancient Chinese art. The collection has more than 120,000 pieces on display. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to go into the museum, but we took for many pictures using it as a backdrop.

The Chinese seem to be making an easy transition from the past into the future. You know it wasn’t that many years ago that China was a third world country. China detonated its first atomic bomb in 1964 and then completed the Nanjing Yang Tze Bridge in 1968, signifying its emergence as a force in the world. Although Chinese society continues to transform itself, there is no doubt that they are an emerging superpower and a force to be reckoned with.

I am so glad that we made this trip because I truly believe that we are witnesses to history.

Dispatch: Shanghai

With a population of more than 18-million people Shanghai is one of the most densely populated locations on earth as well as being one of the two most important cities in China. Its futuristic skyline is as breathtaking as its culture is rich in history and complexity. With nowhere to go but up, high-rise apartment and condominiums would be located within spitting distance of each other if spitting had not been outlawed until the Olympics are finished. You could walk the streets forever and never repeat yourself. Feel social and want to meet everyone? There are two options: visit the official Olympic kiosk on Nanjing road; or forget about it. Which makes it all the more remarkable that Stephanie literally bumped into a friend of hers from Chinese school at CCSF.

Our guide Johnson threw in an extra half day tour to maximize our Shanghai experience, so we had opportunities to spend money in more places than we had expected. We began with a foot massage and pulse diagnosis at the Shanghai People’s Health Ministry. All was cool, our feet were luxuriating and our tensions relieved until Dr. Lee, the snake-oil salesman, predicted early deaths and decrepit lives for the adults. Instead of bowing to fear and unloading several thousands of dollars on herbal medicines Kelby settled for a jar of snake oil (seriously) and we headed out for the next economic opportunity.

The Yuyuan Shopping City packs more people into a defined space than anyplace I have ever been.  That old Shanghai hand Justine bee-lined to the NanXiang Street Steamed Dumpling shop and went to the end of long line waiting to purchase Shanghai Dumplings (Xiao Long Bao). While the girls waited, and we knew that we wouldn’t lose Stephanie if she was in a slow moving line, Kelby and I maneuvered the circuit. We saw every trinket and artifact that we had already seen on the trip: hand painted fans; jade jewelry; Chinese paintings and calligraphy; crystal paintings and much more. However, it was of lesser quality and it was being sold in a frenzied environment devoid of charm or circumstance. We held onto our wallets, did our best to avoid the hustlers and after an hour threaded our way back to the dumpling line. Justine had made friends with the girl in line in front of her and fast enemies with an old lady who inserted her grandson into the front of the line.  It was tense for a few minutes because the little brat wouldn’t concede his stolen space, but Justine persevered. We shared the delicious and delicate dumplings and I contemplated on what a rotten human being that little boy would become as an adult. 

The old fat lady at the Feng Shui museum was scary. We didn’t buy any of her overpriced products, but I do believe that she chastised our guide for her own shortcomings. I feel sorry for the girls that work for her. The wide eyed stare that I took for admiration was no doubt abject fear of their employer. After dinner at the Dragon Boat Restaurant we returned to the hotel to await phase two of our great adventure.